"Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To" (murdersofa)
09/05/2015 at 23:51 • Filed to: None | 1 | 5 |
The dog barks and the sub vibrates angrily. Conclusion: tie. Also I still don’t understand speakers. I went from a 1000w amp bridged with the two speaker coils in parallel to a 110w amp bridged with the two speaker coils in parallel and everything sounds better. 11% the power sounds better. I don’t get it. It’s *FAR* louder, too.
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Destructive Tester
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
09/06/2015 at 00:44 | 4 |
Without knowing the specs on your setup, it’s possible your old amp is almost comically overspec’d while your new one is much more realistic. There’s also the possibility that one is rated for “peak” output while the other is rated at “continuous”. For example, (I think it was) Orion rated all of their amps for 100 watts in the 90’s to mock the output ratings of their competitors. In reality, I think their amps started around 1500 watts (based on their construction) and went up from there...
There’s also the possibility you were just putting so much power to your driver that the air volume in your car wouldn’t let the pressure wave develop (think waves in a pond compared to a lake). It’s a problem I had when testing a custom home sub; it should have been insane but was underwhelming until I put it in a bigger room. That was when things got fun! (110dB measured, and corrected @20 hz IN A HOUSE!)
Mattbob
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
09/06/2015 at 00:45 | 3 |
peak power and continouous power are usually very different things, and they don’t tell the whole story about the quality of an amp or how it will work with a particular speaker. For instance, the power rating should be couple with an ohmage, for instance, 1000W @ 4Ohms or something like that. Depending on the quality of the amp, it isn’t uncommon for a good low power amp to be way better than a cheap amp with a very high peak power rating. If you posted the model numbers or specs of both amps, I could probably tell you more.
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> Mattbob
09/06/2015 at 00:50 | 0 |
The “1000w” amp had no markings on it other than the wattage. What I’m using now is a 110w Optimus XL-110.
Echo51
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
09/06/2015 at 03:02 | 0 |
All about that dampening factor. Also only go for RMS wattage on the amps, not “max” or whatever is typically printed on the box/amp.
ArmadaExpress drives a turbo outback
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
09/08/2015 at 09:45 | 0 |
It’s also possible that the 1000w subs were damaged or worn in some way, and that could contribute to why the new ones sound better. Also, the dimensions (15” v 10”) can make a very bg difference, but you likely already know that.